Exploring Gilded Age Glamour and the Societal Meaning of Elegance

Luxe Looks on a Budget with Tanya Calmwood

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The Gilded Age: Refined Elegance in Women’s Fashion, the 1870s–1900

Welcome to Luxe Style Secrets Podcast, where we journey through the most fabulous eras of fashion. I’m your host, Tanya Calmwood, and today, we’re stepping into the shimmering world of women’s fashion from the 1870s to the early 1900s, the heart of America’s Gilded Age. We’ll reveal what elegance meant in this golden era, how styles shifted across generations, and how fashion became a mirror of wealth and social aspiration. We’ll touch on everything—materials, silhouettes, undergarments, accessories, and even those elaborate bathing costumes!

What was the Gilded Age?

For all the fancy clothing and regulated dress codes, the Gilded Age was a period in U.S. history, roughly from the 1870s to 1900, of rapid economic growth and industrialization. Everything was flashy and shiny, and covered in gold – hence the term “gilded.”  However, what appeared to be – and was for some - prosperous on the surface was marked by political corruption and huge social inequality underneath.  According to historians, the three major societal changes during the Gilded Age included:

• the movement from agriculture to industry,
• shifts from rural to urban living,
• women's entry into the labor force, and
• westward migration.

The author and social commentator, Mark Twain, coined the term, “The Gilded Age.”. He described this era of "glittering" wealth alongside a "gilded" layer of poverty, corruption, and terrible social problems for many people.

Dressing as a Social Rule– Coded Roles and Expectations

The elaborate wardrobe of a wealthy woman usually involved multiple changes of dress daily. Changing clothing was a performance of her social role. Some of the implications of social code and dress are:

• Social Standing: Dressing according to the determined social norms for upper- class women affirmed one's place in the rigid social hierarchy. Clothing styles and fabrics distinguished those from the "old money" elite from women whose wealth – “new money” was more recently acquired – usually through marriage. The ability to afford a vast and socially specialized wardrobe was a display of wealth.
• Propriety and Modesty: Modesty was a general rule for daytime wear. Women’s dresses were expected to have high necklines and long sleeves. Evening wear for balls or dinners could feature lower necklines and shorter sleeves, but was still governed by strict rules on when and where such attire was appropriate.
• Public Behavior: Etiquette extended beyond the clothes themselves to how one acted while wearing them. For example, an unmarried lady was expected to be accompanied by an escort after dark to protect her dignity, and gentlemen were admonished for "unrefined" behaviors like smoking in the street or keeping women standing.
• Mourning: The highly visible public mourning ritual required the wearing of specific black attire for set periods of time – at least one year. Mourning clothing was a key moral expression of respect for the deceased and the affirmation of one's own social position. 

Defining Elegance in the Gilded Age

Elegance in the Gilded Age was more than just looking fancy. It was about grace, refinement, and signaling status. Clothes were a language—speaking of taste, wealth, and even moral character. For some, true elegance was in restraint and poise; for others, it was about dazzling with opulence. 

Gilded Age Clothing Style and Perceived Moral Values

During the Gilded Age, morality and dressing were often linked. Complex dress codes served as a highly visible indicator of social standing, respectability, and moral character. Fashion was a social language, with specific outfits dictated for every occasion, time of day, and social function. 

The Gilded Age Television Series

A fascinating way to learn about this period in time is to watch the televised series. Written and produced with amazing accuracy by Jullian Fellowes, Wikipedia provides this description of the show:

The series follows Marian Brook, a young woman entering 1882 New York City's rigid social scene who is drawn into daily conflicts surrounding the new money Russell family and her old money van Rhijn-Brook family. The two are neighbors across 61st Street near Fifth Avenue on the Upper East Side of New York. The series explores conflicts of new money (who made their money through industrialism), old money (who have inherited wealth), the African-American upper class, and the domestic workers in service to the other three groups.

What to Wear When and What Each Outfit Meant to Observers

Clothing was a visual code that silently communicated messages about identity, wealth, and status.  What was a wealthy Gilded Age woman expected to wear, and what did the choice of clothing tell others about her social role?  We will briefly discuss how these women dressed on specific occasions and what their clothing was thought to communicate about their morality.

During the Gilded Age, morality and dressing were often linked. There were complex dress codes serving as a highly visible indicator of social standing, respectability, and moral character. Fashion was a social language, with specific outfits dictated for every occasion, time of day, and social function

But here’s an important note: Morals are not woven into fabrics. While people hold opinions about how others dress and assume high or low morals, morals concern the distinction between right and wrong or good and bad behavior.

Generational Shifts in Clothing

As mothers and daughters debated style, you saw dramatic changes: older women might cling to Victorian tradition, while young trendsetters embraced bolder looks, lighter fabrics, and new ideas about comfort.

The Gilded Age, Clothing, and the Black Elite

For marginalized groups, like the emerging Black elite, dressing impeccably was also a strategy for survival and a means of commanding respect and negotiating hostile spaces, adding another layer of moral and social significance to clothing choices. 

Ultimately, fashion in the Gilded Age was not merely about aesthetics; it was a rigid system where one's appearance was under constant scrutiny and a direct reflection of one's adherence to the era's demanding moral and social expectations. 

 Gilded Age Fashion: Fabrics, Silhouettes, Colors, and Embellishments

I’m just going to list the items in this section. There is so much! Here we go:

• Opulent Materials: Think silk, velvet, brocade, and delicate lace—materials that shimmered by candlelight and showed off a family’s fortune."
• Dramatic Silhouettes: Bustles, hourglass waists, and flowing trains defined the shape of the era. Dresses were crafted to exaggerate curves and create a sense of drama.
•  Color and Embellishment: Wealthy women of the era wore rich jewel tones, soft pastels, and intricate embroidery or beadwork that  turned each outfit into a work of art.

Another note: You may have noticed recently that women are shaping their bodies through exercise, surgery, corsets, and form-fitting clothing. Some of them are even wearing what they call waist-shapers. In clothing, they look very much like they are wearing bustles. Next let’s discuss:

Dress Construction: Undergarments, Tailoring, and Craftsmanship

Clothing never looks good if one is wearing ill-fitting undergarments. Let's talk about what was worn under the clothing of the dames of the Gilded Age.  We'll start with:

• Undergarments:  No dress was complete without layers of petticoats, corsets, and bustles. These underpinnings sculpted the body and made the outer garments truly shine.
•  Tailoring and Craftsmanship:  Seamstresses and tailors were artists—hand-stitching, fitting, and shaping garments to perfection. Every pleat, ruffle, and dart spoke of skill.

Accessories and Hairstyles: Status Symbols and Styling Techniques

Accessories: No look was complete without gloves, fans, ornate hats, jeweled brooches, or delicate parasols. Accessories were more than decoration—they announced your social standing.

 Hairstyles: Hair was often piled high, curled, or adorned with ribbons and combs. The right hairdo could make or break an outfit—and was a chance to show off personal flair.

Comfort and Occasion Wear: Casual, Church, Tea, Evening, and Bathing Outfits

• Casual Outfits: Day dresses were practical but still elegant—think high necklines, sturdy fabrics, and minimal embellishment for errands or home.
• Church Attire:  Church attendance called for modesty and refinement—darker colors, covered arms, and tasteful hats.
• Afternoon Tea Ensembles: Afternoon teas meant an opportunity for women to visit one another’s homes and compare staff, home décor, and menus. They would sometimes plan charity events. To these teas, elite women dressed in lighter colors, airy fabrics, and playful details—perfect for socializing.
• Evening Wear:  For balls and soirées, women dazzled in gowns with low necklines, sparkling embellishments, and sweeping trains.
• Bathing Costumes:  Even swimwear was about style—modest yet decorative, with bloomers, tunics, and matching caps. Bathing costumes offered a glimpse of relaxation, but always with an eye for fashion.  However, one could lounge – bathe – in the water. The fabric was too heavy to provide safety for swimming.

Conclusion: Generational Shifts and the Lasting Impact of Gilded Age Elegance

• Generational Reflection:  Across generations, women balanced tradition and innovation—shaping what elegance meant in their time.
•  Enduring Influence: The Gilded Age gave us a vision of fashion that still inspires today: the idea that clothes can elevate, empower, and express who we are.

Thanks for joining me on this journey through the luxe look of the Gilded Age. We also learned about the connection between clothing and the perceived morality of the wearer, even though this occurred during a period of political corruption, industrial changes, and a huge socioeconomic divide between the women who dressed as we’ve discussed and those who were impoverished. We should be aware that what we wear holds history.  But there may also be a few ideas from previous times that we can add to our wardrobes.

If you want a go-to resource that breaks down the idea of looking affluent and put-together without breaking the bank, I highly recommend checking out Luxe Looks by Mia Winslow. It’s packed with practical advice on mastering luxury style affordably, perfect for anyone working on their look while transforming their body shape.

Remember, personal style tips for women aren’t about following trends blindly—they’re about discovering what really speaks to your body and soul. So if you’ve been stuck wondering how to handle the changes with your wardrobe, keep it simple:

1. Find your body shape and understand it.
2. Pick statement pieces that flatter your best traits.
3. Experiment with fit and proportion until it feels natural.
4. Add personality with accessories.

So, wrap your style journey around who you are and who you want to become. Why not treat yourself to that sense of luxury style that comes with confidence?  Your personal style is your signature, your personal brand, and the way you tell the world your story every day.  Buy Now and Discover Affordable Luxury Style that works no matter your budget. You’ll find it’s not just about clothes—it’s about you!

Until next time, keep seeking beauty, understanding history, and embracing a little bit of elegance in your everyday life.

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